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A hard steeply climbing walk to the foot of the main face of Bidean, followed by a direct approach up the snow gully below the summit
Rocky paths, followed by an easy snow gully. At the time the route was done, snow had stayed long into spring, and good solid snow filled the gully, making for a very direct approach to the summit.
Hazards and warnings
Mountaineering is dangerous. Avalanche are always a risk in snow gullies, and care should be taken to assess conditions.
Park on the A82 and walk along the A 82, and then along the path below it, until you reach the path to the bridge which crossed to the base of the Three Sisters. Cross the bridge and begin the long steep descent up Coire nan Lochan.
If conditions are good, head up the obvious central snow gully. Depending on snow conditions, you may need to move out of the gully and onto the rocky buttress either side of the gully. After topping out, carry on to the summit of Stob Coire nan Locahn, and then follow the narrow ridge to Bidean nam Bian. From there, follow the ridge to the right to the secondary summit of Stob Coire nam Beith, below following the ridge north, descending, until you reach the top of the path from near the Clachaig. Descend the path, which becomes well surfaced, to eventually reach the A82, and walk back to the start.
We did this route in late spring, in a year with plentiful snow. Thus, although the weather was pleasant in bottom of the Glen, and skies were clear, we managed to find good, solid hard-packed snow in the gullies below Stob Coire nan Lochan. After a few tricky bits where the snow had fallen away into the running water below, we got started on kicking steps. Just before the top, the snow became thinner, and we had to transfer to the rocks of the butress. After topping out, we headed for Bidean proper, and descended via Coire nam Beitheach. We avoided the temptation to head straight for the Clachaig, and instead got the car first.
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